How to Dye With Fresh Indigo Leaves – (In 3 Ways)

Last Updated on August 5, 2023

With its rich history dating back thousands of years, indigo dye has captivated cultures across the globe, leaving its mark on textiles, fashion, and art. Today, we embark on a creative journey, exploring the three enchanting methods to dye with fresh indigo leaves and witnessing the magical transformation of fibers into vibrant shades of blue.

How to Dye With Fresh Indigo Leaves
Image Source: BillyNou, Canva

Can You Dye with fresh indigo leaves?

Yes! You can dye fabric with fresh indigo leaves. So, What part of the indigo plant is used for dye? The part of the indigo plant used for dyeing is the leaves. Indigo powder, which is the famous blue dye, is extracted from the leaves of the indigo plant. The leaves are harvested, dried, and ground into a fine powder, which can be used for dyeing fabrics and other materials.

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How to Dye with fresh indigo leaves?

Today, we will explore the fresh leaf method of dyeing with indigo. This technique uses fresh indigo leaves and salt to create beautiful shades of blue on various fibers. We’ll also try some experiments to achieve different colors along the way. So, let’s dive in and get creative!

Materials Needed

  • Fresh indigo leaves (harvested from indigo plants)
  • Salt
  • Protein fibers (e.g., silk, wool) and optionally treated cellulose fibers (e.g., bamboo, linen, cotton)
  • Fructose (optional, for the fructose vat method)
  • Calcium hydroxide (also known as pickling lime, for the fructose vat method)
  • Cooking pot or container for dyeing
  • Water
  • Thermometer (for the fructose vat method)
  • A warm place with sunlight (for fermenting the indigo vat)
  • pH-neutral soap (for washing dyed fibers)

Method 1: Fresh Leaf Salt Extraction

Step 1: Harvest and Prepare Fresh Indigo Leaves

Harvest and Prepare Fresh Indigo Leaves
Image Source: BillyNou

Gather fresh indigo leaves from your indigo plant. Separate the leaves from the stems, as the stems do not contain much of the blue color.

Step 2: Prepare Fiber

Pre-treat the protein fibers (e.g., silk, wool) with soy milk for better color absorption. Soak the fibers in water and soy milk for several hours or as recommended for your chosen fiber.

Step 3: Massage the Leaves with Salt

Massage the Leaves with Salt
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Combine the fresh leaves in a large bowl or container with a generous amount of salt. Massage the leaves and salt together to release the blue pigment (indoxyl) from the leaves.

Step 4: Dye the Fiber

Dye the Fiber
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Submerge the pre-treated fibers into the container with the indigo leaf-salt mixture. Knead and massage the fibers gently to ensure even color absorption. The color will develop over time.

Step 5: Allow to Ferment

Leave the fibers and the indigo leaf-salt mixture in a warm spot with sunlight for 24 hours. This will allow the indigo to ferment and develop the desired blue color.

Step 6: Wash and Dry

Wash and Dry
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After fermenting, wash the fibers with cool water and pH-neutral soap to remove excess dye. Hang the dyed fibers to dry.

Method 2: Indigo and Heat (Indie Rubin)

Step 1: Prepare the Fresh Leaf Indigo Extract

Prepare the Fresh Leaf Indigo Extract
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Follow the same steps as in Method 1 to create the fresh leaf indigo extract by massaging the leaves with salt.

Step 2: Apply Heat

Heat the fresh leaf indigo extract in a separate container to approximately 140 degrees Fahrenheit (60 degrees Celsius). Add the pre-treated fibers and let them sit in the heated indigo extract.

Step 3: Oxidize and Wash

Oxidize and Wash
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Remove the fibers from the heated extract after 10-15 minutes. The color may appear initially as a reddish-orange tone. Oxidize the fibers by exposing them to air, then wash and dry them.

Method 3: Fructose Vat

Step 1: Create the Fructose Vat

Create the Fructose Vat
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Combine fresh leaf indigo extract, fructose, and calcium hydroxide (pickling lime) following recommended proportions in a container. Stir the mixture gently.

Step 2: Apply Heat

Apply Heat
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Heat the mixture to approximately 140 degrees Fahrenheit (60 degrees Celsius).

Step 3: Dye the Fiber

Immerse the pre-treated fibers in the fructose vat and let them sit for 10-15 minutes.

Step 4: Oxidize and Wash

Oxidize and Wash
Image Source: BillyNou

Remove the fibers from the vat and aerate them in the air to trigger oxidation. Then, wash and dry the dyed fibers.

Final Thoughts

Indigo dyeing is a journey of exploration and experimentation. Each method offers unique results, and you can modify and adjust them to suit your preferences and the materials you have at hand. Remember that natural dyeing is an art, and embracing surprises and learning from each experience is part of the joy. Happy dyeing!

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