Last Updated on February 29, 2024
Creating a patch pocket with a flap can add a stylish and functional element to your garments, especially button-down shirts. In this sewing guide, we’ll walk you through the process of sewing a patch pocket with a flap and adding a snap for closure.
Highlights:
- Start by cutting fabric pieces accurately, following your pattern. Consider using contrasting fabric for better visibility.
- Pay attention to folding and stitching details for the pocket and flap. Two rows of stitches ensure a secure pocket attachment.
- Be cautious not to sew through the pocket when attaching the flap. Trim excess fabric for a polished look.
- Apply fasteners accurately following your pattern’s marks. For pearl snaps, use a hammer to secure them in place.
- If you have multiple pockets, repeat the process—the end result: stylish, professional-looking pockets on your garment.
Patch Pocket with Flap
A patch pocket with a flap is a functional and stylish pocket commonly found on buttoned-down shirts. It consists of a pocket attached to the garment with an additional flap, often secured with fasteners like snaps, providing both aesthetic appeal and practicality.
How to Sew Patch Pocket with Flap
To sew a patch pocket with a flap, cut fabric pieces based on your pattern, stitch and attach the pocket to the shirt, sew the flap, and secure it with snap fasteners for a professional finish. Repeat for additional pockets if needed.
Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sewer, follow these steps for professional-looking results.
Materials Needed
| Materials | Quantity/Size | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Fabric for Pocket and Flap | As per pattern | Consider using a contrasting fabric for better visibility. |
| Fusible Interfacing (if required) | As per pattern | Optional, apply to the wrong side of one flap section. |
| Thread | Matching color | General-purpose thread for sewing fabric pieces together. |
| Pins | Sufficient quantity | To hold fabric pieces in place during sewing. |
| Sewing Machine | 1 | Equipped with a straight stitch and zigzag stitch. |
| Scissors | 1 pair | For cutting fabric and trimming seam allowances. |
| Iron | 1 | To press fabric and ensure neat seams. |
| Snap Fasteners (Pearl Snaps) | As required | For securing the flap and pocket; quantity depends on pattern. |
| Hammer | 1 | For attaching snap fasteners securely. |
| Pattern and Pattern Marking Tools | As required | Follow pattern instructions for accurate cutting and sewing. |
Optional
- Sewing clips for holding fabric together
- Seam ripper for any corrections
- Basting thread for temporary stitching
Pattern Pieces
- Cut out your pattern pieces – the pocket and the flap. The number of pieces depends on your pattern instructions.
- Consider using a contrasting fabric for visibility or stick to the same fabric as your shirt for a cohesive look.
- If your pattern requires fusible interfacing, apply it to the wrong side of the fabric, focusing on the flap section.
Sewing
Step 1: Preparing the Pocket
- Turn the top edge of the pocket on the wrong side by ¼” and press.
- Fold the top edge on the right side along the fold line indicated on the pattern. Pin this folded edge.
- Stitch along the side and bottom seamline, securing the folded section.
- Trim the seam allowance on each side of the folded portion.
- Flip the folded section to the wrong side and press.
- Fold the remaining raw edges over on the seamline, turning corners first and then sides. Press in place.
- Stitch along the bottom folded edge at the top of the pocket.
Step 2: Attaching Pocket to Shirt
- Pin the pocket (right side up) to the shirt piece (right side up), matching placement marks.
- Stitch around the sides and bottom of the pocket, using two rows of stitches for added security.
Step 3: Preparing the Flap
- Pin the two flap pieces (right side to right side) and stitch on all sides except the longer straight side between the two dots.
- Clip off corners and trim the seam allowance.
- Turn the flap right side out and press.
- Baste across the unstitched side ⅝” from the raw edge.
Step 4: Attaching Flap to Shirt
- Match the marks on the flap with the placement marks on the shirt.
- Stitch on the flap’s basting stitch, ensuring that it does not sew through the pocket.
- Trim the raw edge close to the stitches.
- Fold over the flap top, overlapping with the pocket, and stitch along the top to secure it.
Step 5: Fastening
Apply fasteners as the final step. In this case, pearl snaps are used.
- Locate fastener placement marks on your pattern and ensure accuracy.
- For the flap, push the prongs through to the underside, fit the socket over, and secure with a hammer.
- Put the pronged socket through from the backside for the pocket, fit the stud over, and secure with a hammer.
- Repeat these steps for additional pockets if needed.
FAQs
Can I use the same fabric for the pocket and flap as my shirt?
Yes, you can use the same fabric for a cohesive look. However, using contrasting fabric for visibility during the sewing process is recommended, especially for beginners.
Do I need to apply fusible interfacing to both flap sections?
No, unless specified by your pattern. This guide applies interfacing to only one of the two flap sections for added structure.
Why are two rows of stitches used to secure the shirt’s pocket?
Two rows of stitches provide extra durability and stability, ensuring the pocket stays securely attached to the garment over time.
Can I sew the flap directly onto the pocket instead of attaching it separately to the shirt?
While it’s possible, separating the flap and pocket allows for better control and alignment during the attachment process. It also ensures the pocket remains functional.
What other fasteners can I use besides pearl snaps?
You can use buttons, hook and loop closures (Velcro), or other types of snaps based on your preference and the style of your garment.
How do I prevent accidentally sewing the pocket shut when attaching the flap?
Stitch the flap slightly above the pocket edge to avoid sewing through the pocket.
Can I add more than one patch pocket to my garment?
Simply repeat the steps for each additional pocket, adjusting the quantity of fabric pieces accordingly.
What should I do if my fasteners don’t align accurately with the marks on the pattern?
Double-check your pattern markings for accuracy. Make slight adjustments when attaching the fasteners to ensure they align correctly.
Conclusion
Here’s a simple key measurements for sewing a patch pocket with a flap:
| Step | Action | Measurement |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Cut fabric for pocket and flap | Dependent on pattern |
| 2 | Turn top edge of pocket and flap | ¼” |
| 3 | Stitch sides and bottom of pocket | Seamline (e.g., ⅝”) |
| 4 | Trim seam allowance on folded section | Trim off excess fabric |
| 5 | Baste across flap’s unstitched side | ⅝” from raw edge |
| 6 | Attach pocket to shirt | Stitch close to edge, then ⅛” |
| 7 | Stitch flap sides (except longer straight side) | Seamline |
| 8 | Baste unstitched side of flap | ⅝” from raw edge |
| 9 | Attach flap to shirt | Stitch on basting, avoiding pocket |
| 10 | Trim raw edge of flap | Close to stitches |
| 11 | Fold over flap top and stitch | Top of flap to secure |
| 12 | Apply fasteners (pearl snaps) | Follow pattern marks |
| 13 | Trim excess thread and fabric | As needed |
With these steps, you’ve successfully sewn a patch pocket with a flap, adding both style and functionality to your garment. The addition of snap fasteners completes the look, providing a professional finish.
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