Last Updated on May 24, 2023
Have you ever seen a pleated garment and wondered how it was made? Pleats can add a touch of elegance and sophistication to any outfit, but they can also be intimidating to sew for beginners.
Adding pleats to your cosplay or costume can elevate the overall look and add intricate details. Whether you’re working on a school skirt, a historical gown, or a decorative trim, mastering different pleating techniques is essential.
Learning how to sew pleats can take your sewing skills to the next level and open up a whole new world of design possibilities. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced seamstress, here we will teach you everything you need to know about sewing pleats.
So, grab your sewing machine, and let’s get started!
How many types of pleats are there?
There are two types of pleats: permanent pleats and temporary pleats. However, in terms of pleat styles, there are several variations, including knife, box, inverted, and accordion pleats.
How to Sew Pleats – How to do pleats step by step?
In this step-by-step guide, we will explore six popular pleating techniques to help you achieve professional-looking pleats for your next project.
Materials Needed
- Fabric of your choice
- Sewing machine
- Thread
- Pins
- Iron
- Spray starch (optional)
- Needle and strong thread or embroidery floss (for cartridge pleats)
- Strip of felt or wool (for cartridge pleats)
Steps to Follow
1. Box Pleat and Inverted Box Pleat
- Fold the fabric in one direction, creating a fold of the desired size.
- Fold the fabric in the opposite direction, ensuring the edges of the fold touch each other.
- Pin the pleats in place.
- Sew the pleats down within the seam allowance at the top.
- Iron the pleats flat.
- (Optional) Use spray starch while ironing for extra crispness and shape.
2. Knife Pleat
- Fold the fabric in one direction, creating a fold of the desired width.
- The foldbacks of the knife pleats can be in line with the previous fold or slightly offset, depending on your preference.
- Sew the pleats down within the seam allowance at the top.
- Iron the pleats flat.
- (Optional) Use spray starch while ironing for a sharper look.
3. Accordion Pleat
- Fold the fabric in one direction, making narrow folds of approximately 1cm or less.
- Ensure the back folds match up with the previous front folds, eliminating gaps.
- Sew the pleats down within the seam allowance.
- Iron the pleats flat.
4. Mixing Pleats
- Create a 2cm knife pleat.
- Make a second matching knife pleat directly on top of the previous pleat.
- Next to the second knife pleat, create another knife pleat in the opposite direction to form a box pleat.
- Underneath the box pleat, create another knife pleat.
- Sew the pleats down and iron them flat.
- Admire your unique, layered pleat design.
5. Topstitched Pleats
- Create a single box pleat or knife pleat.
- Sew within the seam allowance and iron as before.
- Use a narrow allowance to sew along the knife pleat until the desired flare starts.
- For the box pleat, choose the inverted side and sew it down with a narrow allowance.
- Sew across to the other pleat and then sew back up to the original stitching line.
- This technique locks the pleats in place neatly.
6. Cartridge Pleats
- Attach a strip of felt or wool to the top of your fabric, sewing it in with a 1cm seam allowance.
- Flip the fabric and hide the raw edges to create a hem. Press with an iron.
- Mark half-inch intervals on the felt strip.
- Weave through the fabric using a needle and thread at marked intervals.
- Repeat the weaving approximately 1cm below the first row of stitching.
- Pull the threads tight to create cartridge pleats.
- Manipulate and adjust the pleats using your fingers before tying off the thread.
- Sew the pleats directly onto the waistband or bodice of the gown by hand.
Conclusion
By following these step-by-step instructions, you can confidently sew various pleats for your cosplay or costume projects. Experiment with different techniques, mix and match pleat styles, and achieve professional results.
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