Last Updated on October 20, 2021
How to Use Serger Sewing Machine? If you’re not familiar with sergers, stick around, and you might learn something. When you buy a serger new, they tend to come threaded with a test scrap fabric under the foot. So you can see that it was tested and calibrated at the factory, which is nice.
Table of Contents
Read the Manual
Most surges have this little door that gives you access to the looper threads. This machine uses the door as a storage compartment. So all the little cleaning tools and spare needles are stashed right here.
A tip for beginners and pros alike- always consult the manual for a new machine. But if you buy a used machine, it will not come with a manual. Then try to find it online, because all machines are different.
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Understand the Serger Type
I’ve had five surgeries and five sewing machines, and there’s something different about every single one. They have different bobbin orientations, threading directions, or this serger’s case; there’s a different order of threading.
When it comes to sergers, the machine’s threading is the part that people dread most. But it’s not that hard. It’s like following a recipe when you’re cooking.
Do one step at a time, and you’ll be fine, and then once you’ve done it a few times, there’s usually a little cheat sheet diagram on the machine.
Threading a Serger
Now come to the thread cone set up. Before you start threading, you should get rid of the test scrap. So just going to advance the wheel by hand to get it out of the way. The top is a big knot of the test threads.
Cut the knot off so you can get at each thread individually. It is the cheater method 2 for threading a serger. You don’t have to do it this way. You can clear out all the threads and start from scratch. But the cheater method takes some of the pressure off especially.
If you’re still a little where you’re threading your serger, it works the same for all machines. Take the live end of the thread already threaded through the machine and tie it to the end of your new spool.
Now, if you are threading this machine from scratch, it would be crucial to do so in the order dictated by the manual. It’s less critical when you’re using the cheater method, where you tied new threads on the old threads, But going to do this in order, for this machine, just in case you’re wondering why I’m staring at one side and not the other these numbered dials.
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At the tension control discs, gently pull the thread through the tension disc until you see your knot come through there. Repeat it for the other loopers.
Tying the new spool onto the live thread and make sure you get good tight knots on these. Once they’re tied nicely, you pull the threads through the machine until you get to the knots, and bam, you’ve got freshly threaded loopers.
Once you’re finished with the looper, we can move over to the needles you can use. The same technique the needles where you’re tying on a new thread to the old thread, except the knots generally aren’t going to make it through the needle eyes. So you’d have to advance the new thread just until you get to the eye of the needle.
Then you have to cut the knot and thread the new thread through the needle by hand instead of threading the needles from scratch. Because honestly, threading the needles is the hard part. Cut the old thread out and throw the new spools step-by-step as dictated by the manual.
Unlike the loopers, most needles on sergers are probably threaded about the same way. You will probably get a thread guide at the very top of the machine. So the tension disks are usually marked with a neutral position in this case.
It’s the number four setting when you’re threading. The tension disks inevitably get knocked out of place. So you will just set that back to four threads through the tension disc. Sometimes it’s hard to get it in.
So always grab the thread like you will floss your teeth and work it in under the tension disc. There’s probably another thread guide, and the thread diverts toward the needle.
Another thread guide the spot for the left needle and spot for the right needle. Above the needle itself on a shaft, there’s a loop for the left thread & one for the right thread.
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Threading Needles on a Freaking Serger
Now the tricky part there’s just something about threading needles on a freaking Serger. It takes way longer than it should. It helps if you have one of these needles. If you’re not familiar with this needle, you’ve probably seen there’s a more disposable type that kind of looks like a bit of foil coin with a loop of wire on it.
This one is the same. It’s just blue plastic instead of foil push. The wire loop through the needle’s eye (from the back of the machine) is one of the trickiest parts. There is limited space to maneuver around the needle.
After passing the wire loop through the needle, pass the thread’s end through the wire loop. It is almost as hard as threading the freaking needle itself. But once you get the thread in the wire loop, you pull the wire loop back through the needle.
Voila, you’ve threaded that little bastard. You will probably have to thread the loopers from scratch. Just follow the instructions and take them step-by-step.
However, a serger will finish seams as well as cut your fabric. There’re seam allowance numbers to the right of the needle. Consider the numbers and push the fabric past the blade in the right direction. It usually ranges from 1.5 to 2.5 cm. Also, use the foot pedal to control the speed of your sewing.
Don’t press too hard on the fabric, and remember to keep it straight. The overlock sewing machine’s feet should assist in pushing the fabric through. After you stitch a seam, you should sew a few extra stitches to form a tail that can be sewn in and secure the seam.
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