Last Updated on May 8, 2023
Have you ever come across a piece of clothing with a welt pocket and wondered how it was made? Welt pockets are functional and add an elegant touch to any garment. If you are a sewing enthusiast, learning how to sew a welt pocket using a sewing machine is a valuable skill to have.
Welt pockets are commonly found on jackets, pants, and skirts. They are known for their durability and ability to hold small items, such as keys or a phone. However, welt pockets can intimidate to sew, especially for beginners.
What is welt pocket?
A welt pocket is a type of bound, flat pocket commonly found on the front of a man’s tailored jacket, often used to tuck a handkerchief or on the reverse of a pair of jeans.
It features a welt or reinforced border along the edge of a piece of fabric, providing a clean and polished appearance. This pocket design is functional and stylish, adding a refined touch to garments.
How do I sew a welt pocket using a sewing machine?
Fortunately, with a few tips and tricks, you can easily sew a welt pocket using a sewing machine. Here, we will guide you through the step-by-step process of creating a welt pocket, so you can confidently add this stylish detail to your sewing projects.
- Fabric for the garment and welt
- Fusible interfacing
- Sewing machine
- Matching thread
- Fabric scissors
- Seam ripper
- Fabric marker or chalk
Steps to sew a welt pocket with sewing machine
So, How do you sew a welt pocket? Sewing a welt pocket using a sewing machine can be broken down into several steps. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you sew a professional-looking welt pocket:
1. Prepare the pattern and fabric
- Begin by marking the location of the welt pocket on the wrong side of the garment fabric using a fabric marker or chalk.
- Cut out two rectangles of fabric for the pocket bag.
- Cut two welt pieces according to your desired width and length.
2. Apply fusible interfacing
- Cut fusible interfacing for the welt pieces and the pocket opening area on the garment fabric.
- Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of the welt pieces and the garment fabric, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
3. Sew the welt pieces
- Fold each welt piece in half lengthwise, with the right sides facing out, and press.
- Stitch the ends of the welt pieces closed, approximately 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) from the edges.
4. Mark the pocket opening
- Draw a rectangle on the wrong side of the garment fabric, representing the size and position of the pocket opening.
- Draw a line through the center of the rectangle, and then draw two diagonal lines from the rectangle’s corners to the centerline, creating a “V” shape at both ends.
5. Attach the welt and pocket bag
- Pin one pocket bag piece to the right side of the garment fabric, aligning its top edge with the centerline of the pocket opening.
- Place one welt piece on top of the pocket bag, aligning the raw edges with the centerline of the pocket opening.
- Stitch along the top edge of the welt piece, following the drawn lines on the garment fabric.
- Repeat this process for the other welt and pocket bag piece, aligning them with the bottom edge of the pocket opening.
6. Cut and turn the pocket opening
- Carefully cut along the centerline of the pocket opening, stopping at the “V” shapes, and then cut along the diagonal lines up to the stitch line.
- Push the pocket bag and welt pieces through the opening to the wrong side of the garment fabric, and press the pocket opening flat.
7. Secure the welts
- Fold the pocket bags away from the welts on the wrong side of the garment fabric.
- Stitch the triangular flaps at the ends of the pocket, opening to the welt pieces, securing them in place.
8. Sew the pocket bag
- With the right sides of the pocket bag pieces facing each other, pin and stitch around the perimeter, enclosing the raw edges of the welt pieces.
- Finish the raw edges of the pocket bag with a zigzag stitch or serger or by turning under and stitching to prevent fraying.
9. Press and finish
- Give the welt pocket a final press from the right side of the garment fabric, ensuring that the pocket opening is flat and smooth.
- Continue sewing the rest of your garment according to your pattern instructions.
How do you make a single welt pocket?
To make a single welt pocket, follow these steps:
- Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket welt. This will provide stability and support for the pocket.
- Fold the pocket welt right sides together lengthwise, resembling a hot-dog bun.
- Stitch along the short ends of the folded welt using a ½-inch seam allowance. This will create a clean finish for the pocket edges.
- Grade the seams to reduce bulk by trimming one of the seam allowances shorter than the other. This ensures a smoother finish when the welt is turned right-side-out.
- Clip the corners of the welt to prevent the excess fabric from bunching up and to create sharp corners.
- Flip the welt right-side-out, ensuring the corners are crisp and the seam allowances lie flat inside.
Now that you have prepared the single welt, you can proceed to attach it to your garment by following the appropriate steps for sewing a welt pocket. Remember to mark the pocket placement on the garment, sew the welt to the right side of the fabric, and then create the pocket opening and attach the pocket bag.
How do you cut and sew a single welt pocket?
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How do you sew a welt stitch?
To sew a welt stitch based on the given information, follow these steps:
- Start with two pieces of fabric cut to create the seam. Place them right sides together, with the darker sides facing each other.
- Stitch a centimeter and a half (5/8 of an inch) in from the edge along the entire length to create the seam, using the 15 lines on the needle plate as a guide.
- Trim off any excess thread, then open up the seam.
- Trim down one of the seam allowances to about half, and edge-finish the raw edge using your preferred method (e.g., overlocker, zigzag stitch, or pinking shears).
- Press the seam allowance to one side, covering the shorter piece with the longer seam allowance.
- Check that the seam is flat from the right side as well.
- Stitch parallel to the original stitch line, keeping an equal distance from it and close to the edge to hold the fold in place.
- To add topstitching, stitch a couple of millimeters in from the original seam line, keeping the edge of your foot in line with the stitching. Make sure to keep the stitching parallel for a neat appearance.
Once completed, your welt seam with topstitching will resemble a jeans-like finish on the outside, with multiple lines of stitching inside for a secure and neat appearance.
So, sewing a welt pocket using a sewing machine may seem like a daunting task at first, but by following our step-by-step guide, you will be able to master this skill in no time. Welt pockets are a versatile and stylish addition to various garments, and knowing how to create them on your own opens up a world of possibilities for your sewing projects.
Throughout this guide, we have covered the essential steps, from gathering the necessary materials to preparing and assembling the pocket pieces. We also highlighted some crucial tips and tricks that can help you achieve a professional finish.
We hope that this tutorial has not only equipped you with the knowledge to sew welt pockets confidently but also inspired you to explore your creativity and elevate your sewing projects. Remember, practice makes perfect, so don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from your mistakes along the way.
Take your time and follow each step carefully to achieve a professional-looking welt pocket.
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