Last Updated on March 12, 2024
Godets, those elegant fabric inserts that add flounce and flair to skirts, sleeves, or pant legs, are a delightful detail in garment construction. In this tutorial, we’ll explore the world of godets, focusing on the most common pie-shape variety.
Highlights:
- Sewing godets adds a stylish touch, bringing movement and charm to your outfits.
- Mark your godet, stitch precisely, and finish edges for a professional look.
- Allow your garment to settle for 24 hours to ensure a smooth finish after inserting godets.
- Backstitch, tie threads, and use clever stitching techniques for stability and a polished result.
- Experiment with fabrics to make your godet pop, adding a fun and personalized touch to your wardrobe.
Additional Resources:
What is a Godet?
A godet is a triangular or pie-shaped fabric insert added to garments, such as skirts or sleeves, to introduce flounce and enhance the overall design. It contributes movement and style to the finished piece.
Godets come in various shapes, with the pie-shape being the most common. Before you begin sewing, ensure your godet pattern has a mark at the top. If not, mark the seam allowance lines on each side, and the intersection will be your guide.
Follow these step-by-step instructions to seamlessly incorporate godet seam inserts into your next sewing project.
Preparing the Fabric
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To ensure a polished finish, it’s essential to finish the raw edges before inserting the godet. Use an overcast stitch around the godet and along the seam lines where you’ll be stitching.
Sewing the Godet Seam
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- Sew your seam as usual, stopping precisely at the mark on your pattern. Remember to backstitch for stability.
- Press the seam open, then fold the seam allowance below the mark and press again.
- On the wrong side of the seam, place the godet, matching the marks at the top and bottom. Pin one side of the godet to the seam, ensuring the right sides of the fabric are together.
- Sew one side of the godet, starting at the mark and sewing towards the hemline. Remember not to backstitch at the mark initially and use a smaller stitch length for the first inch.
- Repeat the process on the other side of the godet.
Finishing Touches
- Tie the threads in a hand knot at the top and cut off excess thread.
- Cut a slit in the seam allowance near the mark on the garment side only. Press the fabric to lie flat, with seam allowances going toward the garment, not the godet.
- To maintain a sharp point on the godet, restitch along the seam, extending it past the top by ⅛” to ¼”.
- Optionally, topstitch on each side of the seamline and on the outside edge of the godet for a polished finish.
Final Steps
Allow your garment to hang for twenty-four hours to let the bias edge in the godet settle before hemming. Once settled, hem your edges as usual.
How to Sew a Godet Into a Slash
To sew a godet into a slash, reinforce the area with fusible interfacing, cut the slash, pin the triangular godet in position, sew without backstitching from the point, secure threads, and achieve an elegant garment detail following the tutorial.
| Step | Measurement/Action |
|---|---|
| Godet Shape | Triangular or pie-shaped |
| Slash Reinforcement | Apply fusible interfacing around the slash area |
| Slash Cut | Cut along the marked slash line, stopping at the godet point |
| Pinning Godet | Fold back one half, pin godet at the slash point, and along the seam allowance |
| Sewing Godet | Start at the godet point, use a straight stitch without backstitching, and sew to the end |
| Securing Threads | Pull threads to the wrong side, secure with a pin, and tie off for a tidy finish |
Prepare Your Materials
Before starting the sewing process, ensure you have a triangular-shaped godet ready. Note the godet’s point, as it plays a crucial role in seamless integration into the slash. Also, mark the slash area where the godet’s point will be inserted on your fabric.
Reinforce the Slash
To ensure stability at the slash point, reinforce the area by applying fusible interfacing. Press the interfacing into place, securing the foundation for the godet insertion.
Cut the Slash
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Carefully cut into the fabric, creating the slash. Stop precisely at the marked point for the godet, resulting in a well-defined opening for the insertion.
Pinning the Godet
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Fold back one half of the slash and position the godet at the marked point. Pin the godet into place, ensuring alignment with the raw edges. While pinning, take note that matching the raw edges at the point may be challenging, but this is normal for this technique.
Sewing the Godet
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When stitching the godet into the slash, start at the point of the godet. Avoid backstitching at this stage; instead, leave the threads loose. This will be crucial for securing the threads later. Stitch along the seam allowance, gradually building up the seam as you move towards the end.
Secure the Threads
Once both sides of the godet are stitched, focus on the thread tails at the point. Gently pull the threads to the wrong side and secure them with pins. This step is crucial for minimizing bulk in the tiny area around the godet point.
Tying Off Threads
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To complete the process, tie off the loose threads at the godet point. This ensures a clean and professional finish, eliminating any potential bulk in the area.
Conclusion
The godet is a versatile and stylish detail that adds a touch of sophistication to your garments. Whether using matching or contrasting fabric, this tutorial provides a comprehensive guide to sewing godet seam inserts. Enjoy experimenting with godets to enhance the fullness and flow of your creations.
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